The original model’s outer tachymeter ring becomes a 1/10 second scale for easy precise chronograph readings, and the contrasting inner ring transitions from a decimal hours scale to a decimal scale for use with the chronograph.
With a unique central chronograph seconds hand that makes a rotation of the dial once every 10 seconds, the subdials and outer scales change accordingly. The largest departure here is the functionality of the chronograph itself.
Zenith el primero chronomaster retrograde series#
Two of the three variants render this classic form in stainless steel, while the third adds a layer of luxurious masculine warmth with 18k rose gold.Īlthough the three models in the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Original series share two strikingly different dial colorways, the basic design is nearly identical to the 1969 A386. Other than modern fit and finish, the only major departure for these new models is the sapphire display caseback. The rest of the case design also follows the classic 1969 pattern, with a paper-thin polished bezel and piston pushers. In larger iterations of this case, the stark and dramatic undercut of the lug tips helps to visually compact the design to smaller than expected proportions, but with an already compact 38mm diameter this may lead to the watch feeling too minute on the wrist for some. Despite the apparent simplicity, these lugs are a showcase for Zenith’s intensive and exacting finishing, with radial brushing along the lug tops given shape by a flowing outer chamfer and matching mirror polished case sides. The lugs are the real highlight here, wide a wide gradually tapering form and wedge-cut pointed tips that help to accentuate the sharpness of the form in images. This is an impressively accurate rendition of the original A386 design introduced in 1969, with the same deceptively simple form. The new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Original series offers perhaps the most compelling addition to the collection thus far, delivering the most iconic El Primero design in a faithful 38mm rendition along with a pair of charismatic reimaginings while boasting the brand’s modern movement-making prowess.Īll three models in the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Original line follow the same 38mm case design. The brand’s latest release changes that, bringing the more traditional A386 case design into the permanent Chronomaster Revival collection with a trio of handsome new references. However, until now this Chronomaster Revival sub-brand has primarily focused on the tonneau-cased A384 and A385 designs introduced in 1969, while mostly neglecting the third core model in the original El Primero family. So far, this effort has been a solid success for Zenith, with a wide variety of faithfully sized reissues of early El Primero references bolstered by a mix of new modern colorways and reinterpretations. Although heritage has always been a cornerstone of Zenith’s long-running El Primero chronograph series, in recent years the brand has redoubled its commitment to authenticity and historical accuracy for vintage-inspired El Primero models.
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